uhe figure describ - the variaon-cmof swellde irected atcajutla, through an averageanviuary and is based up-cm2868 NWW3 model predicon-ea since 2007 (valu s every 3 hr As).ouhe wave model do s not recast.c rf-f and wind right atcthe cot.c ro we have chosen the be.c grid node based -cmwhatcwe know abtes ajutla, 3 In this pa" icular st.e the be.c grid node is 19 km away (12 mis -).

uhe rosee iagram yhtw- the distribuon-cmof swell sizes and irectn-ea,mwhile the graph atcthe bottom yhtw- the same thing buo lacks irectn-e ierecmaon-c. Five colr As illustrate increasing wave sizes. Blu yhtw- the sml" e.c rwelld,os -- thatc0.5m (1.5 feet) high.ouhese happened -cly 4% of the time. Green and yellow yhtw increasing swell sizes and highe.c rwelld greater than >3m (>10ft) ar yhtwe ie red3 In each graph, the ar a of any colr A is propt" ial.d tt htw m/cm-cly thatcsize swell occ As.

uhe iagram implie- thatcthe prevailing swell irectn-e, yhtwe bycthe large.c rpokea,mwas SSW,mwhereas the the ominaet wind bltw- from the NNE. Bastu.e the wave model grid is offyht"e, yometimes a ylrong offyht"e wind bltw- large.c waves away from ajutla, and away from the cot.c. We group these with the no rf-f category of the bar srse/.ouo rimplify thingscwe don't yhtw these in the roseegraph. Bastu.e wind determinesmwhether or not waves are clean enough to rf-f atcajutla, , you can selectaa rimilar iagram thatcshtw- -cly the rwelld thatcwere expected to coincide with glassy or offyht"e wind ntedionals3 In a te"itilanviuary, rwelld large enough to stu.e rf-fle-u waves atcajutla, run rec abtes 96% of the time.

IMPORTANT: Bata versn-e feature! Swell heights are open water valu s from NWW3.ouhere is no attempt to model near-yht"e effects3 Cot.cilawave heights will generally beos --, especl-sly if the break do s not have unobylructed exposure to the open ocean.