Statistiques de Houle pour Avoca Point, Automne: Vagues avec Vents Légers ou Favorables.
This image shows only the swells directed at Avoca Point that coincided with light winds or offshore conditions through a typical southern hemisphere autumn. It is based on 6580 predictions, one every 3 hours. The direction of the spokes show where quality surf generating swell comes from. Five colours illustrate increasing wave sizes. Blue shows the smallest swells, less that 0.5m (1.5 feet) high. Green and yellow show increasing swell sizes and red shows the highest swells, greater than >3m (>10ft). In both graphs, the area of any colour is proportional to how commonly that size swell was forecast.
The diagram implies that the prevailing swell direction, shown by the biggest spokes, was ESE, whereas the the dominant wind blows from the SSW. The chart at the bottom shows the same thing but without direction information. For example, swells larger than 1.5 feet (0.5m) coincided with good wind conditions 26% of the time, equivalent to 24 days. Open sea swells exceeding >3m (>10ft) are unlikely to occur in a normal southern hemisphere autumn but 5% of the time we expect swell in the range 2-3m (6.5-10ft) 5%, equivalent to (5 days). Taking into account the fraction of these swells that coincided with expected offshore winds, and given the fact that Avoca Point is exposed to open water swells, we think that that clean surf can be found at Avoca Point about 26% of the time and that surf is spoilt by onshore wind 35% of the time. This is means that we expect 56 days with waves in a typical southern hemisphere autumn, of which 24 days should be surfable.
IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.