Statistiques de Houle pour Anglet - La Barre, Printemps: Vagues avec Vents Légers ou Favorables.
This image shows only the swells directed at Anglet - La Barre that coincided with light winds or offshore conditions through a typical northern hemisphere spring. It is based on 6580 predictions, one every 3 hours. The direction of the spokes show where quality surf generating swell comes from. Five colours represent increasing wave sizes. Very small swells of less than 0.5m (1.5 feet) high are shown in blue. Green and yellow represent increasing swell sizes and red shows largest swells greater than >3m (>10ft). In either graph, the area of any colour is proportional to how commonly that size swell occurs.
The diagram implies that the dominant swell direction, shown by the biggest spokes, was WNW (which was the same as the most common wind direction). The chart at the bottom shows the same thing but without direction information. For example, swells larger than 1.5 feet (0.5m) coincided with good wind conditions 14% of the time, equivalent to 13 days. Open sea swells exceeding >3m (>10ft) are unlikely to happen in a normal northern hemisphere spring but 4% of the time we expect swell in the range 2-3m (6.5-10ft) 4%, equivalent to (4 days). Taking into account the fraction of these swells that coincided with forecast offshore winds, and given the fact that Anglet - La Barre is slightly protected from open water swells, we calculate that clean surf can be found at Anglet - La Barre about 14% of the time and that surf is messed up by onshore wind 38% of the time. This is means that we expect 47 days with waves in a typical northern hemisphere spring, of which 13 days should be surfable.
IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.