Statistiques de Houle pour Andrew Molera State Park, Automne: Toutes Houles – Tous Vents
The figure describes the combination of swells directed at Andrew Molera State Park through a typical northern hemisphere autumn and is based upon 7252 NWW3 model predictions since 2006 (values every 3 hours). The wave model does not forecast wind or surf right at the coast so we have chosen the best grid node based on what we know about Andrew Molera State Park. In the case of Andrew Molera State Park, the best grid node is 27 km away (17 miles).
The rose diagram shows the distribution of swell directions and swell sizes, while the graph at the bottom shows the same thing but lacks direction information. Five colours illustrate increasing wave sizes. Blue shows the smallest swells, less that 0.5m (1.5 feet) high. These were forecast only 9% of the time. Green and yellow show increasing swell sizes and highest swells greater than >3m (>10ft) are shown in red. In either graph, the area of any colour is proportional to how commonly that size swell was forecast.
The diagram implies that the dominant swell direction, shown by the largest spokes, was WNW, whereas the the dominant wind blows from the NNW. Because the wave model grid is away from the coast, sometimes a strong offshore wind blows largest waves away from Andrew Molera State Park and out to sea. We combine these with the no surf category of the bar chart. To avoid confusion we don't show these in the rose plot. Because wind determines whether or not waves are clean enough to surf at Andrew Molera State Park, you can view an alternative image that shows only the swells that were expected to coincide with glassy or offshore wind conditions. Over an average northern hemisphere autumn, swells large enough to cause surfable waves at Andrew Molera State Park run for about 91% of the time.
IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.